Making a DS out of two...

2010-09-13T14:29:00.000-07:00

The oil pressure went bright red. I've removed the fuel pump and connected a pressure gauge.

Got the engine running using a lawn mower tank.

Pressure is good; the sender unit is bad.

Received the new sender unit last Friday...

During the road test the car was not running right and felt lean at cruising speed (Not smooth). I've opened up the carb and discovered a lot of mud. After cleaning and raising slightly the fuel level in the bowl, the car is flying now.

The hood safety latch was not catching; it is working now.

Bumper brackets: Finished!

2010-09-07T05:02:00.001-07:00

Sealed and painted. The grease is to prevent corrosion.

Done!

Rear bumper brakets...

2010-09-03T05:17:00.000-07:00

Working on the rear bumper brackets...

After cleaning and weldable primer...

Punched some holes on the new part...

In place. Next: clean up, seal and paint.

2010-09-02T04:27:00.000-07:00

The parking brake is fixed. This is a major pain in the *** to do. I had one on my parts car.

The tappets, ignition and carb adjustment are done. The front shield and fenders are back on the car. Today I am starting the replacement of the rear bumper brackets.

2010-09-01T04:11:00.000-07:00

New rear view mirror installed

The rods are ready to be installed

New chrome balls

Both sides are done

The front suspension issue: The spheres are good, the height corrector is good also, but...

The line relieving the pressure from the height corrector was clogged solid. First time that I see this.

New line and new fitting. The front is smooth and goes down quickly using the height corrector lever.

The rear was way too high. This car is in good shape; the sway bar area is rust free. After tuning the suspension I've sprayed some oil to prevent rust.

Looks more normal now :o)

Follow up...

2010-08-27T04:12:00.001-07:00

The car came back to get the head re-torqued. Some other issues appeared in the mean time. As expected, one of the rear suspension boots broke.

The groove carved by the ball.

Very rusty and pitted ball. I am waiting for a bag of new chrome balls.

Dremell to the rescue!

If one boot cracked after so many years of immobilization, the other will break soon. Sure enough...

Ready to be installed. Waiting for the balls and ball boots.

The head was re-torqued; next will be to check the valve clearance. I have drained the coolant, then the oil to make sure no seepage of coolant occurred in the engine.

This is the reason why the car got stuck on the freeway 60 miles away from my shop. The original ignition wire broke. I have soldered new terminals .

The car is too high on the back. Ready to address this.

The front was hard and I thought that a sphere was bad. The spheres are good but the eight corrector is not working properly when using the height lever. This is next on my list.

Waiting for the rear bumper brackets.

2010-06-03T03:22:00.000-07:00

Still having problem with dirty fuel

Drained the tank again.

The hose was at the very bottom of the tank, sucking all the dirt.

In addition, a rubber hose in the engine compartment was porous.

Cleaned up the gutters and put some sealer

The starter relay failed again. I' replaced it with a universal one (With a button)

More crap in the fuel filters...

After getting stuck 4 times on the road (Turned out that a kink on the hose was getting the dirt stuck sometime), I changed the pick up hose with a new one (Used on Chevrolet) of the same diameter . I've engaged it until it touched the bottom of the tank and backed off 2 or 3 mm; this should improve the dirt pick up problem.

The 5th gear was engaging but disengaging after a little while. The bushing fro the linkage at the gear box was damaged. Replaced it with a rubber hose and 2 washers temporarily; works perfectly.

The car is pretty much finished. Drives very well except for a noise on the front right side (Will investigate today). I vac the inside, dressed the tires, did the hubcaps etc...

I've also treated the leather.

Seats and fuel filter

2010-05-25T03:30:00.000-07:00

More bugs are coming out. The rivet that the starter relay wire is attached to was dirty and did not let the juice flow. I have removed the wire and solder the rivet. As a weird coincidence my own car had the same problem the same day!

These are the seats that will replace the one in the car...

Cleaned and installed.

I was tuning up the car on the road and the car died right on my driveway. Very lucky there! Turned out to be a clogged filter as well as the pick up in the tank which completely clogged.

I had a hard time to get the car in the garage with a lawn mower tank; I suspect the clogged carb as well.

The filter on the right was on the car for a few seconds!!!

2010-05-25T03:29:00.000-07:00

2010-05-11T04:04:00.000-07:00

I have received the bearing kit from Western Hemisphere.

This is the face that goes in.

I've check the pump before going any further.

I've reset the tappets and the engine is nice and quiet now. I just have to fine tune the carb and the car is done.

2010-04-28T05:10:00.000-07:00

Changing the wiper motor

A marking from the factory...

The motor crumbled like a dry cookie.

Mother's works great on the aluminium hinges.

Hooked up the brake lights

This is what was in the oil after the second oil change.

I've put the spare thermostat in vinegar for several days...

... and tested it with a heat gun.

It is installed now.

Although I have drained the tank, some dirt is coming up...

... and messed up the fuel pump. I even found metal shaving in it !?

This is why I use Ligarex to hold the hose to the carb. That's how a DS turns into a pile of ash.

I relocated the new fuel pump before the pump.

Due to a leak, I've removed the HP pump. The spare one is also leaking at the same place, between the face and the body.

Reset the steering wheel and zero point. Needs to be double check while driving.

Not much left to do :o)

Fuel gauge...

2010-04-23T05:02:00.000-07:00

I open the door to get to the fuel gauge. The tank and tank are is pristine! Looks like new.

The floater was still there but the sender unit was completely seized.

The old fuel was stuck in there.

After a good cleaning and sanding the brushes and resistor, the unit works great.

I have also bled the front brakes and drove the car.

Windshiled and hood...

2010-04-22T04:40:00.001-07:00

After 24 hrs of curing time of the POR15, I've install the windshield. I've started by applying sealer in the groove and put the gasket in place. I put petroleum jelly around the windshield to slide it easily into the gasket.
Once in place, I sealed the bottom. Once cured I added the holding piece under it starting by the center and then doing each side separately to keep the windshield in place.

The summer is coming, so the duct has to be fixed.

I sawed the slop shut then apply duct tape.

The hood is back on.

2010-04-21T06:34:00.000-07:00

I removed valuable parts form the gray DS. I saved the steering rack also. The hood, truck lid and leather door panels won't go to the junk yard either.

Time to say goodbye...

I will install the tented windshield from the part car, but...

Surprise! Too bad the windshield bay was good on the part car.

After grinding, wire-brushing and treating the rust with POR15...

This will hold until the car is restored.

2010-04-12T06:33:00.000-07:00

The rear fender fastener needed some TLC...

... I've welded a 12mm nut and the screw can be replaced with a polish stainless steel one at a later date. The washer is for an oil drain plug.

I still have problems with sticky valves. Actually it was getting worse. I think the new oil flushed the engine and got the varnish and sludge loose which made the valves sticky again. This is the oil after 1 or 2 hrs running:

The inside of the rocker cover had a very sticky varnish. I cleaned it up, replaced the oil and added Marvel Mystery oil. The car needs to be driven and the oil needs to be changed until all contaminants are flushed out.

I've discovered this... So bizarre, I did not notice this before. I have a spare one on the donor car.

Leather and paint...

2010-04-09T04:08:00.000-07:00

Update: After bleeding the rear brakes, the front suspension stays up. I drove the car yesterday around the block; Only minor issues like bleeding the front brakes (Already did but they feel a little weak) and set the "zero point" on the steering; the fuel and temp gauges are not working.

I have cleaned and treated the leather.

I've also washed the car, twice, this car did not see soap for 26 years! I have started to buff the paint and it is coming out pretty well. I have to do the left side and trunk lid now. The vinyl top looks great also.

Getting close to the end...

2010-04-08T04:16:00.000-07:00

The new tires are on.

These are the connectors to the right front fender. The insulation is very hard and brittle.

New duct is in and connected with an inner tube.

Looking better.

Rear brakes...

2010-04-07T03:34:00.001-07:00

I've brought the wheels to Town Fair Tires to get 5 new tires. I took the opportunity to check the rear brakes. Thank goodness I did; they were very oily and the friction material was almost gone.

This cylinder was not free and one cup was cut.

I did a quick honing job; just a few passes to remove the rust and markings.

I took parts from the other car. The brakes were good. Here I am setting the shoes.

The left side cylinder. A "before" and "after" picture. The only new parts I have used is 4 Orings.

height corrector...

2010-04-06T05:27:00.001-07:00

Changed the ignition.

The eight corrector was stuck. It is clean and back on, but the front drops very quickly. I think we have major internal leaks in the cylinders.

Bumpers are done!

2010-04-04T05:35:00.000-07:00

I've put large washers to secure the rear bumper while waiting for a proper repair.

I have straighten and painted the used front plate...

... as well as the 2 bent brackets.

The front bumper is now finished.

New air duct... 4" cloth dryer air duct, less than $10.

Bumpers and rear plate...

2010-04-02T03:37:00.001-07:00

A quick polish job on the "new" stop lights to revive them.

Bad wires at the right front fender connection. Some work there...

Removed the front bumper to try to save it and picked up a new front plate to be painted today.

Before...

After...

The bracket was damaged also.

Removed the rear bumper to replaced the damaged brake stop lights. The rear bumpers are almost completely gone. I bought 2 big washers fro now, but this should be repaired at some point.

This one was fixed by someone earlier.

The bumper brackets were repaired with some heating pipes.

Repairing the lights...

Done.

Engine is running...

2010-03-31T06:53:00.000-07:00

The engine is hooked up and running... Video to come...

I am soaking in WD40 the rear lights from the part car to save them and use some of them for the stop lights.

2010-03-28T07:22:00.000-07:00

Cleaned up the carb before installing it. The second throttle was getting stuck; the screw was backed off too much.

I was nervous about welding on the exhaust manifold but after warming it up with a torch (Cast iron brakes when the temperature difference is too great), I silver brazed a screw on it. I previously did a few threads to hold the screw in place. After brazing, I warmed up again the rest of the manifold and let cool off slowly.

After sawing, grinding and tapping the screw. It is a little off center but I just have to modify a little

2010-03-26T05:47:00.000-07:00

The exhaust rockers are ready to go. The axles are not that good but after a polish job they can do for another few years.

This cylinder was really badly rusted...

After removing most rust and honing the cylinder, it is passable. It looks worth that it actually is. The other cylinders are OK.

I put 2 coats of copper sealer spray on the head gasket.

It's on and torqued. Today, I'll set the rockers.

2010-03-25T05:44:00.000-07:00

I've cleaned up the threads on the studs and block.

Cleaned up the intake ramp and polished the axle.

I polished the valve stems and put the valves back on the head.

An important Citroen tool to hold the valves in place while putting the springs on...

Ready to go back on the block...

Extracting broken bolts...

2010-03-24T06:36:00.000-07:00

Patience paid off once again. I put WD40 everyday on the broken stud. After heating the block with a torch, the stud came right off with the extractor.

The water pump is very clean inside.

The broken stud on the manifold is giving me trouble. The drill bit broke in it. So i am dealing with this today.

Problem! Sticky valves...

2010-03-23T03:09:00.000-07:00

Due to a sticky valve that kissed the piston, I have to open the engine. I was concerned by braking exhaust studs. I broke only one on the top; for the bunch holding the manifold, I used a torch and wd40 on everyone of them and patience paid off.

I had problem with to head studs. This one was stuck in the head and the other (Which I broke) was stuck in the block.

Surprise! A steel wire was wedged between the head and the block! First I have seen this.

A lot of sticky varnish is on the top of the cylinders. I'll use paint thinner and I might lightly hone the cylinders thereafter.

This one was really stuck in the head. It lifted the head while I unscrewed it, which is not good on a DS due to the wet sleeves that might get undone from the bottom, but the sleeves stayed down.

little kiss to the piston. The valve is OK.

No trace on the piston.

The intake valves were stuck solid due to a very sticky varnish. I had to use a heat gun and paint thinner to get them out. I even used a torch for one of them.

The water chamber in the head is very clean.

The valves are lapped...

... and the combustion chambers are clean.

Exhaust (Part2)...

2010-03-19T04:35:00.001-07:00

Set back this morning... Major coolant leak. Also, when I have started the engine, I hurt a crack. The engine is smoking and the tappets are noisy, I am wondering if there are some sticky valves. This car has to be driven.
Looks like the front suspension problem is due to the height corrector. The car does go down now and is very lazy on the front. The back works quickly and nicely.

I had to remove the alternator. Rusted through pin hole on the lower water hose.

Back on the exhaust. The metal thickness does not look original. I'll be welding an extension...

Then, the seem at the 2 in one collector came apart. I welded shut.

Bought some silentblocks (Reference 35144) for the exhaust and fabricated a bracket to match the other side.

There were another leak on the top on the 2 in 1 which I could not weld. I patched it up with an epoxy patch and 2 clamps.

The new bracket in place.

Finished and quiet.

Exhaust...

2010-03-18T06:14:00.001-07:00

I thought that the exhaust job would be easy... Nope!

Discovered a crack on the flexible.

I usually weld better but it's holding.

I have the hydraulic pressure up and no external leaks. Rear brakes seem to be working, the front need to be bled. There is an internal leak on the front suspension (Either cylinders or height corrector). The car goes down very quickly on the front, but the rear stays up for a long time. The clutch and steering seem to be working nicely.

Oops, discovered some rust on the right side. Seems like it is the only rusty spot on this car.

The rest of the chassis is very healthy,

The end of the flexible looked kind of strange. I am wondering if someone welded a pipe; the flexible is too short. I have bought a short pipe that I will weld today.

Also, the attachment on the muffler are different.

I bought some rubber mounts (Originally for Renault) and I'll fabricate a little bracket to match the other side.

Finishing the electricals...

2010-03-17T05:29:00.000-07:00

Leak alert! Changed the hose going from the water pump to the cab. Cheap replacement hose ref # 19039.

Oiled and installed the air filter.

Cosing down the dash. I took the original part holding the ignition switch and cut off the back to use it as a washer.

A garden hose rubber washer will do nicely to prevent the switch to turn while starting.

Done!

The rear light are working, but...

... one brake light is rusted and the threads are damaged. Bad new, it quite a job to remove it and replace it with the spare one from the other car.

The dash is finished.

I used the speedo cable hole to get the new wires to engine compartment. I put a plastic wire protector and a special body putty to keep the hot air and engine noise going to the passenger compartment.

Electrical etc...

2010-03-16T06:16:00.000-07:00

The ignition switch was bad. A replacement unit is $425 at Western Hemisphere. The owner and I have opted to a $16 universal replacement part.

Some relays did not do anything. I used one of them to reverse the polarity going to the starter relay.

On a D (Except for late models) the starter switch sends the ground to the starter relay. Since this switch is universal, it sends the +. The + is going to one of these green relay which in turn sends the ground to the starter relay located on the top of the battery.

I have put together the proper amount and size shims in the dampers; all spheres are now in place.

The electrical system is a real disaster. I am in the process of making new wires using a schematic.

The oil pressure sending unit gave me a lot of trouble. First i made a new wire going to the dash and then the sending unit turned out to be bad. This is an American one with an adapter. I replaced it with one from the part car.

Finally the dash is lighting up.

The three plugs behind the cluster, as a reference:

Starting the engine...

2010-03-12T05:23:00.000-08:00

I have put WD40 in the cylinders a few days earlier to free up the rings and I put some motor oil an hour before starting the engine to lubricate the cylinders. I took the compressions, put the plugs in and started the engine. It started right away. On the video this is the second time that the engine started after 20 years of being silent.

I wanted to do a lube job (27 years without moving...), but one nipple was turned towards the inside of the chassis. I had to undo the fender to access and remove the shield.

I used a washer and some red Locktite to get the nipple facing the hole on the shield.

I found a mouse nest in the vent hose; would have been messy getting some fresh air while driving...

Electrical...

2010-03-11T04:03:00.000-08:00

Installed the speedo cable and...

... the reverse light wires, which I had to change with new wires and connectors.

Dealt with the electrical system. Bad wires everywhere.

I have the starter working with the key now. One wires was so bad that I bypassed it with a new wire going to the engine compartment.

Both points were bad; I cleaned one set to get the car running.

Starting to put the dash together. I have to check all lights and accessories before closing it. Today's task is to get the ignition working and start the engine.

Almost there...

2010-03-10T03:10:00.000-08:00

This is the reference for the HP pump belts.

Aligning the steering rack with a special tool.

The hydraulic fluid filter was damaged; this could be why the pump had a strange noise.

Ready to go, with new O rings. I've cup the olive at the connector; much easier to put a new hose and avoid breakage.

The fluid is in.

Checked the thermostat; looks good and free moving nicely.

Installed the weights on the chassis; the small on goes on the right side.

I always put some grease under the battery tray to protect the metal.

Almost ready to go. I have to deal with all the damaged wires today :o(

Brakes, accumulator, shifter, etc...

2010-03-09T04:27:00.000-08:00

Received my rebuilt spheres from David Cossit-Levy.

The accumulator bracket is cracked. I've used the one from the part car.

The sphere was tested by David and it is OK. It is 20 years old though...

I've put 20 gal of fresh high octane fuel in the tank. I am using a vacuum pump to test the line and for leaks; also to prime the pump.

Changed the fuel line and added a G2. I use Ligarex to secure the inlet.

Installing the parking brakes using a Wisegrip and a valve spring compressor. The pads are set at .1 mm.

I've used a level to record the leveling of the gear box and align the shifter accordingly.

I swapped the pump; the pump on the car was making a strange noise. I am picking up new belts this morning. The belts were wrong and not paired.

Some traces of burn oil on the plugs, but we'll see when we start the engine. I have put some WD40 in the cylinders to free up the rings. Today I'll put some motor oil to lubricate them before starting the engine.

They cleaned up well.

My car likes to watch :o)

Calipers are finished...

2010-03-06T04:15:00.001-08:00

The calipers are rebuilt. I've use compressed air to align the calipers before tight them up and torque the screws.

The axles and brakes are connected. Once I get the regulator, I'll be putting everything back together.

The fuel line going to fuel pump; that what time can do to you if you are made of rubber...

Drained the tank and smelled a 20 year old gas :o(
10 gallons of fresh high octane fuel will go back in.

Front brakes...

2010-03-05T04:13:00.000-08:00

I had to use a torch to put the calipers apart; surprising for a LHM car.

Someone banged up these pistons badly...

The felt rings were hard and brittle.

Ready for the new O rings and felt coming from Dave Burnham.

Three pistons had marking but my dentist tool did not grab, so some polishing did the trick. Each piston is $95; pretty good saving there...

The 4th piston was deeply pitted; could not save this one.

I had to use a torch also to open the 2 spare calipers.

Phew, one of them was good; some polishing and another $95 saved!

Ready to be rebuild.

The disks on the part car were thicker. i removed the rust and install them.

Also, the parking brake pads were better on the part car (The old one on this pic).

Good news, bad news...

2010-03-03T04:37:00.000-08:00

Good news, I found one good motor mount on the part car. Setting the height here.

Home made tools for motor mounts.

The pads were good on the parts car also. Here after a good clean up.

Here is the bad news: The front calipers were seized on both cars. Dave Burnham is sending me caliper kits to rebuilt them.

Engine swap...

2010-03-02T06:53:00.000-08:00

I've removed the door panel and swapped the door handles to have a working key on the ID. I have also done the truck using the same key. Unfortunately both right door handles do not work with any key.

I have swapped the engines on Sunday

Took care of the oil change once the engine was out. Dirty :o/

Everything is clean and ready to go.

Short video on the engine swap...

Engine dsiconect and ignition switch...

2010-02-25T07:03:00.000-08:00

The engine on the DS21 is ready to come out. Waiting for good weather now.

The ignition switch from the DS21 will go on the ID. A stud was broken though.

Took a stud from the other switch and glued it in place.

Checked the switch before installing it.

Bad wires! I think this goes to the starter rely.

It's in!

Started working on removing the engine on the second car...

2010-02-24T03:22:00.000-08:00

Started working on removing the engine on the second car...

Today is motor mounts, axles and exhaust (hopefully)

The Pallas is in the garage...

2010-02-22T13:58:00.000-08:00

Well, my Go-jacks are coming from California, so can't wait. I've borrowed the set I had before. The car (DS 21 Pallas) is in the garage and I'll be working on it tomorrow morning.

2010-02-19T06:01:00.000-08:00

The second DS arrived. I am waiting for my Go-jacks to move it.

I received the hydraulic fluid.

Getting the car in and preraring the engine for removal

2010-02-12T04:28:00.000-08:00

The engine is stuck and the steering wheel locked.

Using a Go-jack to move the car 90 degrees

Now aligned with my garage

It's in!

The engine was already replaced. This is a DX2 (DS21) and the car is an ID19

Someone already tried to remove the ignition switch...

Now it's out

I am concerned about the electrical harness. Common problem in this vintage.

The exhaust is shot and just broke off.

The engine is ready to come out. Now waiting for the second car to arrive.